Letters to Lovers: Paris
by Amanda on January 18, 2012
Dearest Paris,
For the longest time I have loved you from afar. You with your style and poise, never once knowing the longing in my glances, never once feeling the depth of my passion, you and I have been absent lovers for the longest of times.
In vain have I struggled. Struggled to recreate your seductions with charlatan croissants and lesser baguettes. My feelings will not be repressed. You must allow me to tell you how ardently I admire and love you.
I cannot wait any longer. With every fiber of my being, I will cross ocean and sea to be with you. I shall come in late winter when I will have you all to myself. We shall dance under the light of La Tour Eiffel and wander the hills of Montmartre as we have long dreamed.
With love and undying affection, I will see you very soon.
Love Amanda xx
Check out my Letters to Italy, France and Japan.
*Some lines of this letter may have been “borrowed” from Jane Austen’s Pride and Prejudice.
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Yes, friends, can you believe it, I’m going to Paris! Finally! On my way to Marrakesh (where I am teaching our Instant Love retreat with Susannah and Jen), I am flying through Paris, so I am having a few days of awesomeness in the city I’ve been dreaming about for the longest time.
I am totally paranoid about speaking the language and looking like a hobo, so if you have any tips, I would greatly appreciate them. Cute areas to visit, cafes to eat at, museums to wander, outfits to wear, views to see and shops in which to spend Euro – I would love to hear all of your suggestions, so hit me!
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Hi Amanda. I just wanted to leave a comment today. I read your blog every time you post (its on my google reader) and I wanted to say that I find your work very inspiring. I used to follow your flickr back when you lived in Australia, and I just think you’re really neat. Thanks for all the inspiration.
aw thank you Katrina. That’s so kind of you to say. :)
we were just in paris (also en route to marrakech!) and posted about several places we visted (and enjoyed). i really liked mariage fréres for brunch. café constant was great for dinner.
marrakech was so incredibly beautiful. we’ll be posting about it this week. have fun!
I have some tea from Mariage Fréres so I’d love to check that out. Thanks Mina, I’m going to check out your posts. :)
I am SO happy for you! I’ve had the same dream (longing?) for, well, ever! Even studied french for years in college (despite the fact that everyone told me I would never be able to use it and that Spanish is much more practical. My answer to them has always been… I’ll use it when I’m in Paris one day). Oh and Montmartre… swoon! le swoon :) Je pense que vous aurez un moment merveilleux! ~xo
I wish I had studied French. I wish I had studied any language at university actually. You will get there hopefully some day soon too, Sarah!
I don’t have any tips ‘cos I’ve never been, but I’m going to Paris for the first time in May so I’ll be stalking all the comments everyone leaves. :)
And congrats on finally visiting your dream country! Mine came true a few years ago when my husband and I spent 2 months in Thailand. Wish it could’ve been 2 years! I’m sure your visit to Paris will feel similarly too-short.
How long are you going for, Kim? My trip is going to be very short so there will be plenty of things to do when I go back again. I lived my whole life in Australia and have never been to Thailand- very rare for Aussies.
Oh yes! We met so many Aussies in Thailand — that, and folks from Sweden, made up the majority of fellow travelers we chatted with on our way.
I will be in Paris for a whole stinkin’ week! One of those days I will be working, but I’m bringing my husband along so we can have a ~romantic~ getaway. Though I don’t know how romantic it’ll be when I’m just stuffing my face full of pastries and coffee all week. ;)
And already, there are so many good tips for us to consume over here!
i’m so excited for you! i’m planning a europe vacation, too, but for 2013. can’t wait to see all of your photos from paris! eee!
How exciting, Leila!! That’s awesome. Is it sad that I’m more excited about taking photos than anything else? lol
no! not at all, because that’s all i’m thinking about lol!
yay! Paris is the best. In museums, I found the Louvre waaay too long. the Musee D’Orsay was my favourite. It’s an old railway station and a huge antique clock still hangs above the paintings. A manageable size, I found. And the Pompidou centre is cool, interesting inside and lots of little cafes and shops surrounding it.
Have fun!
Thanks Fiona. Yeah, my Sean has told me that the artworks I prefer will most likely be in the Musee D”Orsay over what’s in the Louvre. I feel compelled to go to the Louvre but I will be really pressed for time and don’t know if I’ll be able to do both. So I dont know which one to choose. Hopefully I can fit both in.
Putting Pompidou on the list. Thank you!
I went to Paris in November for the first time in about 10 years. My best friend is studying there so it was great to have someone to guide us! You can buy a ‘carnet’ of 10 metro tickets in the Metro stations. This is probably the handiest way to get around. It is easier than getting one for a few days or that……
The nicest thing we found was to stroll around and have good wine and a cheese plate most places that we went!! We skipped the Lourve, to big and full of people for the more stimulating Pompidou ( I had been to the Musee D’Orsey before its good, but can be very full and Yayoi Kusama was on in the Pompidou )
All around there there are really lovely places for stopping for coffees and pastries, take the time to do this….we had some AMAZING nibbles. Around Monmarte si lovely for strolling, though it is touristy the views are lovely. There is a beautiful old venue called Le Trianon not too long a walk from Monmarte. We saw Bonnie Prince Billy there and it was brilliant.
There is a gorgeous food market on a Sunday Morning in Bastille. Lovely breads and cheeses, fruits, meats, cakes you name it. We had to repack our bags to accommodate all we got there in terms of cheese ( so well priced and with a brilliant selection, many many types, even my cheese obsessed boyfriend who pretty much has a loyalty card at the biggest fromagier here in Dublin ha never even heard of!) Well worth a stroll to get some lovely noms for a picnic!! Its on Boulevard Richard Lenoir (i think!)
Whatever you do, give your self the time to stroll around the Maris…….lovely small streets with great places to stop and eat and watch the world go by. We were lucky to be staying near there and it was such a delight. Be careful ordering coffee though…..if you sit down you will be charged more….we got stung a few times! But really it is just so lovely to be there regardless of what you do! Bon Voyage!!!
ohh I’m so happy for you! I spent 3 weeks there year before last and it wasn’t enough to even scratch the surface! The Pomidou is a must (I went there 3 times!) and yes D’Orsay over the Louvre if you’re short on time.
Have dinner at Le Chateaubriand (129 Avenue Parmentier 75011 – 33 (0)1 43 57 45 95) you can book for an early seating or turn up and hang out at the bar for the second (which i thing is after 9.30 – but get there earlier). To this day its still one of the most amazing dinners I’ve had! Its really laid back and understated too.
Macarons at Lauderie
Rodin Museum – HEAVEN!
Shop – Printemps – Merci –
Drink – red wine in the early afternoon!
Brunch/Lunch/Coffee – Rose Bakery
Check out to see when the flee markets are on (i came across one mid week in the Marais and it was great)
I can’t wait to see your pics – you will do that city the justice it deserves!
hx
Biggest tip that worked well for me was, even though I never studied French, know enough basics to be able to be polite. Hello, goodbye, please, thank you, excuse me will all assist.
The French will know immediately that you cannot speak it – *but* they were never rude to me, I think they were happy I made my clumsy effort and it broke the ice quite well :)
If you’re hankering for it too, there’s some good Vietnamese to be had. The beef in Europe is nowhere as good as Aussie beef, but it was quite comforting (my god, it’s been 6 years since my first overseas trip which started & ended in Paris!)
How exciting! I was in Paris for all of 5 days a couple years ago and it wasn’t enough. I was going to try and fly there after Morocco but it would have put me well over my budget. Some day…I hope to go again. :-)
One of my favorite things was this little bar near Notre Dame called The Guillotine. It is an amazingly local place and at night, down in their cellar, they have live blues concerts. If you like blues, this is a super fun place to visit.
Love Paris. I was there around same time last year and even blogged abt it, but won’t presume to tell you what to do as I’m sure you’ll be inundated with info. Check out a site called hipparis.com. Btw, you’ll be there during the city’s big winter sale (only two sales a year)….One little note, do stop by Le Bon Marche–lower end dept store found everywhere — great for toiletries type gifts etc. Enjoy! (PS–haven’t been here in a while, and of course it’s still as fantastic as I remember)
oh wow! you’re finally getting to go! i have a few suggestions that i regularly tell people about:
i think without doubt you should stay in the marais. it’s one of the bohemian centres of paris. amazing restaurants, cafes, bars, vintage clothing shops, galleries, great shopping, cobblestone streets and some of the older buildings in the city. it has the feel of old paris before the boulevardes were built. i spent 10 days there a few years ago and will probably never stay anywhere else. it’s really close to the pompidou centre, notre dame and easy metro rides to everything else you’ll want to see. having said that you can also walk walk walk all over central paris (good to keep warm!)
on the same street as mariage freres (rue du bourg tibourg) is a bar called lizard lounge that does great cocktails and nearby on rue du vieille du temple is the very parisian cafe philosophe and up the road from this a very cool hole in the wall little jazz cafe.
also nearby on isle st louis is the lovely la charlotte de l’isle – a hot chocolate and piece of cake there will probably do you for meals for most of the day :-) http://www.lacharlottedelisle.fr/
i’ve got quite a few pics on my blog from paris … have an amazing time … you certainly will i’m sure!
N
Paris! Forget what I said about coastal towns, Paris is where my soul calls home. I’ll be there before Marrakech too, as will Heidi. We’re planning to try to hook up so let me know if you want me to loop you in. Now, I’ve spent a lot of time in Paris, mostly for work and up in the 16th but I’ve done my fair share of exploring.
Museums: I totally recommend getting your hands on Rick Steeves’ “Mona Winks”. It’s a great guide to the museums that walks you through the highlights (both famous and less famous but quirky). Let’s you see the museum in a timely way – at least for the Louvre and Musée d’Orsay (these might be in his Paris book too). Pompidou is cool, especially depending on what’s on. Great architecture. If its nice out the sculpture garden at the Rodin museum is awesome (though I don’t remember being wowed by inside).
Getting around on the metro is super easy. Someone above mentioned the carnet. Good idea. Keep your ticket handy because at some stations you need it to exit. Also I always rip the ticket after I’ve exited so that I don’t confuse which is current and old in my pocket.
For shopping le Marais neighborhood has funky boutiques, also the famed Shakespeare and Company bookstore. Pretty stationary and art cards abound in Paris. I always buy tons. Also someone mentioned the shop Merci. Definitely on my list for this trip.
For food it’s kind of hard to go too far wrong. For breakfast you can grab a coffee and croissant just about anywhere. Even bars will bring in croissants from a bakery and are good for quick, cheap breakfast. For coffee, café au lait doesn’t really exist outside tourist places. Order a café crème and look like a tourist in the know. Lunch in the go – awesome sandwiches – can be found at many bakeries. Restaurants tend to serve bigger lunches. Journal writin and people watching in a cafe (or outside if they have heaters) is fab. Like Italy people tend to drink espresso in the afternoon (that’s what you get if you order a “café”). If you want plain water with it as for “in carafe de l’eau plat (tap water). They’ll give you the bill but there is no pressure to leave. One place I love for dinner is called le Petit Rétro http://www.petitretro.fr/ Classic food, cute place. They have (or had at least) a foie gras appetizer with the foie set around dried figs and sliced. Awesome (unles you object to foie – sorry!). It’s in the 16th but not far from place Victor Hugo. You must also sample real Parisian macarons from Ladurée Or Pierre Hermé (or both). Also get chocolate from a specialty shop. Not only will it be tasty but the packaging will be meticulous and beautiful.
To wear: jeans, ballerinas (or Chucks) and a pretty scarf with your jacket. Simple and unfussy.
Final tip, if you are walking along the Seine and someone asks if you dropped something just keep walking as its a scam. You would of course figure this out yourself but you would waste precious time!
Whew! Now I’m excited for my own trip! It will be my first time in Paris since I’ve really gotten into photography and I can’t wait to turn my lens(es) on it! Even the clichés are calling me – empty chairs by the pond at jardin des Tuileries? Yes please!!
You’re going to love it!
oh my goodness, you guys are AMAZING!
Thank you SO much!! This is amazing information!!!
Deb, I’ll be staying after Morocco, not before. Bummer! I’m flying from Vancouver straight through to Paris and then onto Marrakesh. It’s going to be a long day for me!
Well then Heidi and I can give you the up-to-the moment Paris scoop while we’re in Marrakech!
If you do check out Le Printemps, go to the Home decoration part and shoot straight for the top floor. Panoramic views of Paris all around. I only found out about it last month when V brought me there.
How exciting! I am just about to visit Paris for the 5th time, it’s my favourite city. I recommend macaroons in the Marais area and the Musee de l’orangerie. The Sacre Coeur is beautiful, just try to go early in the day before every other tourist in Paris get there! There is also a wonderful old bookshop opposite Notre Dame called Shakespeare and Company where you can spend hours browsing – it’s wonderful! x
I went to Paris for the first time last summer and I had always secretly thought it mustn’t be as good as everyone raves on it is…but of course it was marvelous. C’est la vie!
Because it was summer we avoided the tower and instead we got our views of the city (for free) by climbing the stairs at the Basilique du Sacré-Cœur in Montmatre (there were also some interesting vintage stores on various Montmatre sidestreets if you’re feeling adventurous – read watch for gypsies). I also quite enjoyed wandering (with no particular direction and mainly off the Boulevard) in Saint-Germain-des-Prés. I’d turn a corner and suddenly be in a random square with a fountain and a garden and a Gothic church, it just all felt very French.
Other imperative advice is that while anywhere will sell you a delicious croissant (and do try to eat a croissant with every meal, seriously, you will not regret a single one) you must only eat macarons from Ladurée or Pierre Hermé. Lately I’ve heard Pierre is winning the macaron war among critics but I think Ladurée sells you a whimsical Parisian experience that is just as precious.
I couldn’t agree more about Ladurée and their whimsy! It’s a must-experience!
The speaking french part? When I first came here I found the Michel Thomas CDs were a fast track to learning french (if you can get past the annoying woman on them!) http://www.amazon.com/Michel-Thomas-Beginners-Program-Speak/dp/0071600825/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1326960234&sr=8-1
Also, (this *may* not apply to Parisiens, so sorry if not) the French are initially a bit off-ish, but if you make the effort to speak French you will be treated warmly, they really appreciate the effort.
Have fun, you’ll love it!
Fantastic! I’m sure you will love it here :-) I’ve got tons of suggestions for you but I guess the most important one is to just take your time, stroll around the different arrondissements and let the city surprise you! Looking forward to seeing your paris polaroids already!
Hi Amanda!
Oh you are going to L-O-V-E Paris. Be prepared to want to live there forever! I went a few years ago and it’s still my favorite place on Earth! (Which was a surprise to me, honestly!) But it was Springtime, and beautiful, and sunny, and open air and warm croissants and wide, tree-lined streets and blooming roses… mmmmmm!
IMO you can’t go wrong with anything you do in Paris, even if you just plan on wandering around each day and see what you come across. In fact, I love just walking walking walking around new cities like this. My favorite way to do this is to take a section of the city each day, that way you can cover a lot of ground.
I happen to love Rick Steves’ travel books, and relied on that for a lot of the walks, like our what turned out to be our favorite one, the Historic Paris Walk, featuring Ile de la Cite, Notre-Dame, the Latin Quarter, and Sainte-Chapelle (4 hours/3 miles) *Make sure you walk behind Notre-Dame and look up for a great view! That’s where I was given my Rose from a gardener. :)
Another lovely stroll was after we visited the Lourve. We walked through the Truileries Gardens and stopped to see the Monet paintings at Le Orangerie. Le Orangerie was built to house these spectacular, enormous paintings that wrap around the rooms. I think you’d like it. Then we walked up the Champs-Elysees. At the top of the street, nearer to the Arc, you must hit the pastry shop Ladurée’s that chocoholics must go when they die. We had fruit tarts and merengues, but Jennifer recommended the “almost unpourably thick “chocoalte chaud” (pronounced “show” and which means “hot”). Mark had a “white coffee” which was probably the best thing I’ve ever drank ever, although i had a “caramel coffee” and it was amazing. Ladurée’s at 75, Champs-Élysées, (33-1) 40.75.08.75, on the right side when you’re walking from arc de triomphe toward tuilleries, just after you pass the first Metro station.
We weren’t sure if we were going to go up the Eiffel Tower, but once we got there we just had to. We actually walked the steps, which was a lot but then you did get the cool views as you ascended. My favorite view was looking toward Montmarte, at the Sacre-Coeur Basilica shining like a marble cloud in the skyline.
I’m sure you’ll go to Montmarte too right?! Buy some artwork to bring home! That part of the city definitely was a bit grungier than the rest (mostly when you walked up the steps of the Basilica, people pushing things on you), but I loved the rolling hills and side streets there.
Whatever you do, have a croissant or pan au chocolate every day and soak in the city. You will love it. And I can’t wait to see your pictures! :D
Oh Amanda, I’m so excited for you :) You got my tweet about the photobooths, you definitely can’t miss those, they are my favourite souvenir from Paris! (Alex and Mina went too, you’ve prob seen their amazing booth photos :D)
If you love art, the Pompidou centre and the Musee D’orsee are musts – we skipped the Lourve as it’s so massive, you’ll never see everything. Also the Pompidou Centre has great views at the top of the building too.
To be honest, I wouldn’t worry about any of the things you’re worried about – the Parisians were so friendly when we went in August and everyone was very accomodating with my terrible French and most spoke English in the end anyway. Also, Paris is so eclectic, you should wear whatever you want as you’ll look amazing either way! I’d say be comfortable more than anything as you’ll walk a lot.
Though saying that, the Metro is great, it’s so efficient and cheap! You can get 10 singles for 10 Euros which we used a lot, also it has a great jingle.
Final advice – skip the macaroons and eat the pastries (gasp! I know) BUT there were things I’ve never seen before in Paris, the eclairs are filled with chocolate(!), the pastry just melts in your mouth and the bakeries are just amazing, they beat macaroons every time.
I can’t wait to see your photos already, I had so much fun taking photos there and I know you will too :)
Great news for you ! I guess you will spend more time taking pictures than doing anything else. Don’t worry about French language, I am pretty sure you’ll be understood in English, and, if not, people are used to tourists so they will take time to understand you in French. :-)
Concerning the museums, if you like impressionism, go for “Le musée d’Orsay”. It’s a nice building and the paintings are great. I love this museum.
As I am now living in Paris, I can help you out. Let me know if you have questions. And, if you have enough time, I would be more than glad to meet you. Anyways, don’t hesitate to contact me :-)
Wheee! So exciting for you! I think anywhere you wander will be so amazing- my two favourite places when I was a student were Shakespeare & Co and also the Musée Rodin, especially in the garden…and the Marais for areas to eat and wander. It’s just a lovely city to walk around as well :)
:)
You should start with: Bonjour and then ask: parlez-vous anglais? and then people will be open. If you just start talking in English as everybody should know this language, is just not polite. :) People in Paris is very friendly no matter their reputation on not being so (that was in the past maybe)
1. The best view to Notre Dame and Ile St Louis is from a café on the top of “Institut du Monde Arabe”. There is an expensive restaurant there but also a small Café and a terrace.
In the inside, the windows open and close depending on the light, you may take from there a wonderful picture of the Tour Eiffel.
2. A place that I love to go is:
Jardin de Plantes, Muséum d’Histoire Naturel, galérie de l’évolution and the Gallérie de Paléontologie et Anatomie comparées (they are all at the same place)
You may take wonderful skeletons pictures of the most amazing beings :) and you will find a Dodo and “the” Archaeopteryx fossil (a birdy dinosaur)
3. Louvre is a must for sure (outside and inside) just don’t try to see a lot of things, choose few or just wander around. There is a very nice lunch café as well that has a terrace there (not expensive at all) Nice view as well.
4. I love rue Mouffetard with very nice little shops to buy great bread, cheeses, etc.
5. Cross La Seine through “Pont Neuf” (that is actually the older bridge there) but before that watch : “Les amants du Pont-Neuf” with Juliette Binoche
6. You may have an ice cream from Berthillon Glacier (Ile St. Louis)
7. I like very much around the Bibliothèque Nationale de France, is modern, love the bridges and the spaces around, you may take a little bus-boat (as the seabus but bigger) to come back to down town, costs more or less as a bus. Very interesting expos inside. You get a wonderful view from the bridge just in front and there is spontaneous people playing music there very often.
well…so many things..tell me, something special you would like to buy?
A couple of people mentioned the Le Marais for wandering… I have to second that. I love that neighbourhood! Definitely Musée d’Orsay over the Louvre, which is also good in its own right.
Place des Vosges is also a beautiful square.
And whatever you don’t see, just gives you as excuse to go back. :-)
Definitely check out Le Marais – great vintage shops and lovely cafes. Here is a guide from one of my favourite french bloggers – http://www.mademoisellerobot.com/2009/07/parisian-girls-shopping-guide-to-paris.html
I first went to Paris in November of 2005. Not including Canada, it was my first trip abroad. I fell in love with the city and have been back five times since. While there are so many grand sites in the city (Eiffel, Cathédrale Notre-Dame, Le Louvre, l’Arc de Triomphe), the little things were (and still are) what speak to me.
Indeed Le Marais is a splendid place to walk about… it’s the oldest part of the city and you can find the BEST falafel there (at L’As du Falafel). I also highly recommend a trip to Cimetière du Père-Lachaise and 59 rue de Rivoli, a five-floor building full of independent artists.
I have to agree with Suzie with regard to The Michel Thomas Method for learning French. I have listened to a LOT of programs, and while I have learned something from all of them, Michel’s method taught me more about structure and understanding verb tense than the others did.
Thanks to everyone for all these wonderful suggestions!
Suzie and Patrick, I will check that out!
I’m currently studying abroad in Paris and have for the past 5 months so I have plenty of tips. Instead of buying the carnet I suggest you buy the Navigo pass for the week or even the day passes- these will be much cheaper than having to rely on buying 10 tickets at the time for 12€. Remember once you use that ticket you can’t use it again unless you are making a switching lines in the metro station. Navigo passes can be purchased at the information booth inside metro stops, and day passes at the machines.
The Louvre is much emptier Friday’s after 6pm and not to mention its free for those under 26 no matter which country they’re from. Another great museum is Centre Pompidou which has great modern art pieces.
The best crêpes and galettes in Paris are at Au P’tit Grec in Rue Mouffetard and not only are they HUGE but pretty cheap as well most of them under 6€. L’as du falafel in the Marais has great falafel for 5€. For great Asian food go to the 13th arrondissment, Rue de Tolbiac and Rue de Choisy have a lot of great restaurants. I personally found the world-famous Ladurée macarons to be a ripoff, 5 macarons for 8€ is ridiculous- they’re just selling you the brand to be honest and you can probably find macarons just as good at another bakery.
One last thing, make sure to go to Galeries Lafayette all the way up to the balcony to enjoy the great view of Paris.
Have fun and I can’t wait to see your pictures.
Ahhhh Paris! My Mom and I loved our trip so much last year we’re heading back again at the end of February. Loved just walking everyone (with a bit of metro thrown in)…I’ve been enjoying reading all the comments and suggestions too!
I had to pop back in here because one of my former brides used to live in Paris when she was a kiddo, and when she heard I was going there she emailed me this small list of must-do’s. Thought I’d pass it on to you! :)
“All of these are promenade/exploration worthy.
For fun (youngish) people watching, lots of neat restaurants, go to Rue Mouffetard.
For the best ice cream, go to Berthillon on the Ile St. Louis. That’s a small ancient island in the middle of Paris, next to Ile de la Cité, where Notre Dame is. Sunday mornings there is a bird market on Ile de La Cité.
For the best cocoa, go to Angelina,
Angelina
226 Rue de Rivoli
75001 Paris, France
01 42 60 82 00
Angelina
226 Rue de Rivoli
75001 Paris, France
01 42 60 82 00
226 Rue du Rivoli. Place Vendome is close by I believe. Gorgeous.
La Mairie is a great cool neighborhood to walk around in. Walking distance I think to Centre Pompidou/Beauboug, my favorite contemporary art museum in the world. Check out the view of Paris from the upper floors, and don’t miss the kooky fountain outside.”
Letters to Lovers: Paris – just great!